Kouri island stands uniquely among several dozen sub-islands that pockmark the perimeter of mainland Okinawa. The terrain forms a prim and proper circle of rock, like a beautiful calligraphic dot that occasionally graces the “Tenshi” Japanese calligraphy.
On a recent sunny afternoon my wife and I decided to zip over and circumnavigate Kouri. A round trip will take an epic 10 minutes, in which time we had seen most of what the land had to offer (including the instagrammable “Heart Rock”). The extensive journey had left us with quite the appetite, and we quickly decided to stop at a small, warmly lit restaurant/shack with an ocean view. No sooner had the engine of our car turned off when we heard a “Konnichiwaaaa” echoing from the entrance. The petite woman, who I was surprised had the vocal chords to make such a noise, bowed and quickly placed a can of tea in each of our hands. She began to clap and sing a welcome song. As the restaurant’s only guests, at this point, there was no turning back. We had to order. A quick and thoughtful peruse of the menu didn’t provide any home runs, so we pointed option one, the seafood platter. The lady bowed again, gave us a buzzer, and showed us to the rooftop.
The next 5 minutes were spent in a blissful calm as we watched the blue waters of the East China Sea wash over the shallow reefs below. The silence was only broken by the beep of the buzzer, so I headed down to collect our vittles. One long “Konnichiwaaa” later and I returned with a bowl of zombie tongues, raw sections of heart, slivers of fat, and green alveoli. The morbid array was juxtaposed by a wad of wasabi that was somehow molded into the form of Pikachu, like a victorious Pokémon proudly atop its kill…

I’ll translate. Zombie tongues: the subtly sweet and briny gonads of sea urchins; heart and lard: an assortment of raw fish; Alveoli: salty sea grapes.
This was our chance to dive in. To experience the “raw” nature of delicacies that give Okinawa a well-deserved seat at the round table of seafood lore.
Bang. Boom. Pop. “Konichiwaaaa”. We turned to see the lady marching up the steps, proudly hammering away on a small drum. She burst into a second round of song, bowed, gave us little packets of seaweed, bowed again, and marched back down the steps. We were in shock. What had we done to deserve such treatment? It felt like being royal guests who somehow realize they’re at the wrong party. We reluctantly picked up our chopsticks and began to nibble on the urchins “you know whats”. It’s not for the faint of heart.
We now had to manage to get all these Halloween decorations into our stomachs. But how? Teamwork. On the count of three each of us took a large bite followed by a grimace. Just focus on the ocean. Bite. Grimace with “eeeuuuhhh” sound effects. Focus on the sun now beginning to set beyond the horizon. This would all be over soon.

“Konnichiwaaa!”
I nearly choked. She was back, and holding another round of soup to help the food slide down. No drum this time, but eyes that made it difficult to differentiate genuine joy or forced enthusiasm. She kindly offered to take our picture, and I felt bad, so we smiled, thanked her, and quickly downed the soup after she left before she could bounce back up with more seaweed or wasabi.

As we made our way out we found her standing at the entrance, and she offered to take another picture to remember the experience. We politely declined. She bowed one final time, said “Arigatōgozaimasu”. Yet another song wafted with us as we jetted back to our car.
Keys in. Engine on. Let’s bounce. One last glance in the rearview mirror and she was waving. The woman was nearly doing jumping jacks to see us off. Wide eyed, we looked at each other and laughed. Just not hard enough to re-expose our Halloween assortment.
So, if you’re ever in Kouri island and want the most authentic experience you can imagine, please don’t hesitate to dive into eating the sea life of Okinawa. We’ll let you find the place on your own. I’m sure, like us, it’ll be etched into your memory. What. An. Experience.
(as an aside, I have nothing against this restaurant or what I’m sure is amazing food to so many, so think of this as more of a reflection of my “uncultured-ness” rather than a bash on anything presented).


